Nestled between mountain and river, Montréal's compact downtown core vibrates to a world beat. This is where Montrealers live, work and play—there's no 6 p.m. exodus to suburbs unknown.
    
     Along Sainte-Catherine Street—which traverses almost the entire city from east to west—and up and down the cross streets, restaurants of every nationality share sidewalk space with international name-brand boutiques, great department stores, intimate café-terrasses and very happening nightclubs and bars. A spectacular view of McGill College Avenue and Mount Royal comes into view from the Place Ville Marie esplanade, the birthplace of the underground network.
    
     Wander up to Sherbrooke Street and browse (or splurge) in the designer boutiques, trend-setting art galleries and museums—including the prestigious Museum of Fine Arts—of the Museum Quarter. Stroll east and enter Chinatown, where a thriving Chinese community continues to celebrate traditional festivals and holidays, and where you'll find all kinds of neat things, like medicinal roots, exotic foodstuffs and hand-painted porcelain.
    
     With centuries-old buildings and modern skyscrapers, a medley of architectural styles stands side by side for all to behold. The Quartier international, an exceptional new urban space, is one such site. In addition to the Palais des congrès (Convention Centre) and its colourful glass façade, Place Jean-Paul-Riopelle is well worth a visit for its remarkable fountain-sculpture that features a ring of fire.
    
     Then there's downtown's famous alter ego: the underground pedestrian network. Directly under the heart of the city lie 33 kilometres (20 miles) of brightly lit, scrupulously clean passageways, linking thousands of boutiques, major hotels, restaurants, universities, dozens of office buildings and attractions. This is definitely the Montréal of Montrealers. Every day more than 500,000 people connect through here on their way to work, shop, dine or spend a night—or day—on the town.